canine freestyle moves database
heel work…start
The most important thing about the start is that the dog and handler take off together, that is, as one unit. The start or take-off should be practiced on its own. Firstly you need the dog’s attention. In an obedience trial, before heeling starts, the judge asks “Are you ready?”. At this point a good word to use as a reply is “Ready”. This word can also be taught to the dog as a cue for attention.
You can also start your training sessions with “Are you ready?” and end the training sessions with “All done.” Over time the dog learns to concentrate and focus on you from the time you have said “Are you ready?” until he hears the words “All done”. If you build duration slowly between these two phrases you will have a dog that will focus on you for increasingly longer periods of time. You still have to make it worthwhile for the dog to focus on you!
Start with the dog in heel position.
The normal cue to start heeling is “heel”. As we have taught the dog this is a position we are asking the dog to maintain position as we move.
Once you have the dog’s attention, cue ‘heel’ and take off with the left foot, one small step forwards in a straight line, keeping your left shoulder slightly forward. As the dog takes off with you and maintains the position, click/mark, stop and reward quickly in position.
Release the dog from the position to reset him for another trial.
Repeat 3 to 5 more times.
End the training session.
When rewarding, make sure the dog maintains position and does not move to get the treat…..
… Place the treat right in front of his mouth.
… For people who mostly only see the front part of their large, long dog check that the rear end is straight and does not swing out to get the treat.
… For people who want head-up heeling make sure the dog has his head up, is looking at you and drop the treat right into his mouth. Head-up heeling is a learned behavior and the neck muscles need to be developed for the dog to be able to sustain holding his head up.
Do not use food to lure the dog into heel position.
Troubleshooting
… If the dog does not take off with you the instant you start to move make sure you have his focus and attention and if he still will not take off with you, go back to more position training.
… If the dog does not take off with you the instant you start to move do not use a food lure to get him to come into position. You are setting him up to lag. Do more work on position.
… If the dog takes off and lunges forwards, check that your step forwards is only a small step or even half a step forwards or do more work on position.
… If once you have stopped and the treat is so long in coming that the dog wants to move around to get the treat faster, have your treats at the ready so that you are not wasting time with plastic bags, etc. You want the dog maintaining the position.
On completion of the training session play ball or do something exciting for the dog. It is important that the dog associates “fun” with heeling. Build that bank account for the dog.
If attention is a problem, use a toy or food motivating game like the “Food Circuit” to strengthen the bond with the dog. It is important to make yourself interesting to the dog and one way is to use voice, varying tone and pitch. If you are a person that talks a lot to your dog, cut out the chatter so that the dog can hear the important words. The “Food Circuit” can also be used as a fun game for the dog at the end of a training session.
When the dog can successfully take off with you on small steps, increase the length of your step to your normal step length.
Then increase the take-off to 2 steps, then 3, then 4 and so on, in a straight line building gradually. If at any time the dog loses focus or starts lagging you are asking too much of the dog. Go back to baby steps. Set the dog up to succeed every time.
Use a high rate of reward to build the bank account.
Practice facing different directions and in at least six different locations.
Dog must maintain position moving forwards.
