canine freestyle moves database
heel work…changing pace
Pace describes speed of movement. If the dog is not standing still in heel position he is moving with the handler in heel position. Pace in heel work is defined as
· Normal pace
· Slow pace
· Fast pace
Normal pace forwards
This is where heel work can start to deteriorate,
because too much is expected of the dog too soon.
This can be taught at the same time as heeling elements are being taught, but teach moving forwards in a separate training session. Remember, keep all training sessions short and keep the dog interested with a high rate of rewards.
A per-requisite is that the dog understands heel position. Do not even attempt this until he understands heel position and can Start and Halt in unison with you.
Expect to spend many weeks on this if you want to teach it correctly and not rush.
Reminder, start and end each training session with “Are you ready?” and “All done” respectively.
With the dog in the heel position get the dogs attention. Cue “heel” and take one small step forward and stand still with your feet together. If the dog understands heel position and is focused on you he will move forwards with you maintaining heel position and remain in the heel position when halted. Immediately treat in the heel position and end the training session by releasing the dog and playing with the dog if you have a dog that plays.
Work on taking one step forwards, small step by small step gradually increasing the size of your step until you can take a normal sized step forwards with the dog maintaining the heel position. Please note, a “small step” may be 2 inches!
When the dog is comfortable with a normal step forwards, take two steps forwards, stopping and treating at every step. Repeat for several training sessions until you can reward at the end of the 2 steps.
Gradually increase the number of steps you take. Initially stop and treat at every step. Occasionally treat at every second step. Then vary the number of steps you take before you treat, sometimes more, sometimes less. Do not keep increasing the number of steps thereby making it harder and harder for the dog.
Build up to 20 steps in a straight line with a very high value treat at the end.
At the same time, gradually increase your pace until you can walk at normal walking pace with the dog remaining in the heel position.
If at any time the dog loses focus, begins to lag, starts to move away from the heel position or two-track, ie the back legs are not following the front feet, stop and don’t reward. Do not repeatedly cue “heel”, “heel”, “heel”. Only ever use one cue. Reduce your criteria. The dog is telling you he cannot do what you want. Go back to teaching one step at a time. Work with what the dog is comfortable with. Always set the dog up for success. At no time reprimand the dog or use the word “heel” in a reprimanding tone of voice. You are teaching your dog to walk forwards in the heel position. Do not “drill” the dog. Play ball with the dog afterwards to keep up his prey drive.
Gradually and slowly increase duration until you can take 50 steps, with the dog in heel position, in a straight line with high value treats at the very end. The dog will learn that the longer he works, the better the reward will be at the end.
Randomly vary the number of steps you take, sometimes more, sometimes less and also treat randomly, sometimes every step, then every second step, then every third step, etc. It is important to reward heavily in the initial stages of the training.
When the dog is comfortable with this, that is the 50 paces in a straight line at your normal pace, you can start varying the pace.
Slow pace forwards
Teach slow pace using the same “step by step” principles as described above.
The dog must understand the heel position, Start and Halt.
Start with the dog in the heel position. Get the dog’s attention, cue “heel” and take one slow step forwards and halt. If the dog understands heel position he will move with you at your pace and stop when you halt. If the dog does not understand heel position, go back to basics.
To build on this, start with the dog in heel position, get the dog’s attention, cue “heel”, take one slow step forward, followed by a faster step, followed by a slower step, then halt. Reward.
Gradually increase the number of contiguous normal pace steps, followed by slower pace steps, followed by normal pace steps. Do all this in a straight line. Anytime the dog strays from the heel position go back a few steps in training before increasing the criteria again. Do not “drill” the dog.
Vary starting in slow pace with starting in normal pace and halting in slow pace with halting in normal pace. Do not let the dog unwittingly learn a pattern of heeling. Maintain variety.
Fast pace forwards
This should not be attempted until the dog can comfortably and successfully heel at least 50 paces at normal pace in a straight line.
Fast pace is another change of context for the dog, so set the dog up for success and take it one step at a time.
Use the same “step by step” principles as described above and keep the training sessions very short.
With the dog in the heel position get the dog’s attention and move off at normal pace. After a few steps at normal pace ensure you have the dog’s attention. When he is fully focused on you, speed up the pace a little for a few steps keeping the dog’s attention on you the whole time. With the dog’s attention on you slow down to normal pace and then stop. Treat the dog stopped in correct heel position. Then release and play with the dog.
If the dog comes out of position during the faster paced steps, try one normal step forwards, one faster step forwards, another normal step and halt. Repeat this until the dog can cope with the faster step.
Over time gradually and independently build up the distance and speed at which you do fast pace.
If at any time the dog’s attention strays stand still and do not reward. Go back a few training steps and do what the dog is comfortable with. As you change pace you can cue “heel” again, but eventually you need to drop this additional cue, so that the dog learns to remain focused and to heel for as long as it takes on the first cue he is given.
Always ensure you have the dog’s attention as you slow down after the faster pace. If the dog shoots ahead it is the handler’s fault not the dog’s. Avoid this by reducing the number of fast pace steps you do and ensure the dog understands heel position and is focused on you as you change pace.
If the dog starts to get aroused during fast pace and starts to jump and bark, stand still. Turn your back on the dog and wait. Give the dog time to calm down. Then start the training session again with fewer fast paced steps.